by Will McGough
Last updated: 4:00 AM ET, Fri February 1, 2019
The chaotic buzz, colorful markets and street food of Hanoi grab headlines in the modern day, but the city's past is where the deeper connection lives. And nowhere is there more to appreciate than in the Old French Quarter, where the Metropole Hotel still stands.
From its early days in Colonial Indochina and its role in the Vietnam War to its modern-day prestige, the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi is one of the city's-if not Vietnam's-most historic and enchanting hotels. Come along as we take a look inside.
Two Wings with Two Different Stories
In 1901, 40-some years before Vietnam existed as a country, when Hanoi was the center of French Indochina, the Metropole opened its doors. From the very beginning, it was a staple of luxury for prestigious events and a meeting point for upscale travelers, including ambassadors and heads of state (see below).
Today, the "historic wing" has 106 guestrooms and three Legendary Suites. Charming with its old-world elegance, reflecting French-Colonial Vietnam in its décor and furniture, the wing transports you back to another era, with dark-wood finishes and nostalgic artifacts, like antique telephones.
The newer Opera Wing, by comparison, offers a contemporary contrast to the historic wing. Larger and brighter in its neoclassical décor, the Opera Wing has 236 individually furnished guestrooms and 18 suites, including one Grand Prestige Suite spanning nearly 2,000 feet. The wing is named for its proximity to the Opera House next door and is home to the hotel's new restaurant, angelina, which channels Hanoi's French roots in its cuisine and boasts one of the city's best collections of whiskey in a beautiful, bookshelf-esquebar.
Prestigious Guests and Legacy
In the hallway, around the corner from the main lobby, is a plaque honoring the hotel's most notable guests. The long list includes historic and modern names alike: famous U.S. politicians, like John McCain, George Bush, and Bill Clinton; celebrities like Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie; international leaders like Vladimir Putin.
Suites throughout the hotel are named for some of its more artistic visitors: Graham Greene, Charlie Chaplin, and Somerset Maugham. The Club Metropole Floors (fifth, sixth, and seventh floors) are home to the Grand Premium Rooms, six Prestige Suites and the Grand Prestige Suite that offer services such as a personal butler, afternoon tea and evening cocktails.
Two other American celebrities, Joan Baez and Jane Fonda, are also highly associated with the hotel, but on more serious terms.
Vietnam War History
Baez and Fonda are far more than two celebrity guests. Both have seen their presence at the hotel become infamous for their roles during the Vietnam War (1964-73), when they sought safety in the Metropole's bomb shelter.
Discovered accidentally in 2011 during the renovation of the hotel's Bamboo Bar, the bomb shelter has become one of Hanoi's newest historical attractions. It reopened in 2012 and is now a part of the hotel's historic walking tour, Path of History, for which guests don helmets and head underground to hear stories of the hotel's role during wartime, recounting the hardships endured in the city, as well as more intimate moments such as Joan Baez's writing of Where, Are You Now, My Son? Only open to registered guests, the free tour of the bomb shelter is a great way to gain perspective on life in Hanoi during the war.
Common Space + Hidden Gems + Service
Ask an expat where he likes to go for brunch on Sunday, and the answer would be the Metropole's The Beaulieu. The restaurant, like the hotel, is more than 100 years old, historically frequented by politicians and war correspondents. Guests can learn more about Vietnamese spices and culinary techniques through the Metropole cooking class with one of the hotel's chefs.
Though the bustle outside on the street can be noisy, the inner complex of the Metropole serves as a calm respite. The patio seating of the Bamboo Bar brushes up against the edge of the pool, the contrast of the historic and Opera wings rising up and enclosing the space, edged with neat, green gardening. Just off the inner square is a ring of stores, including a small charcuterie and wine shop where you can purchase fresh meats, cheeses and sandwiches for poolside lounging-highly reflective of the lasting French influence in the Old Quarter.
Also within the interior complex is the award-winning spa, Le Spa du Metropole, which has two themed spa suites for couples, six individual spa suites, one manicure and pedicure room, steam bath, sauna, showers and a relaxation room.
A foreign land such as Vietnam becomes a little less foreign with the help of the service-oriented Metropole staff. Little things, like pre-arranged, fixed pricing on cabs to the airport and employees who speak clear English (not typical of all hotels in Hanoi), help take the edge off the unknown. Nearby attractions, such as Hoan Kiem Lake and several museums, are within a short walk.
The Price is Right
Due to Vietnam's overall inexpensive nature, it's a great place to treat yourself to something you might not be able to afford in other parts of the world. In North America or Europe, a hotel such as the Metropole would run north of $500 per night. But here in Hanoi, a night's stay, including breakfast, will land somewhere in the $300s during high season, and even down into the $200s (or less) during low season, resulting in a surplus value you will remember long after your trip.
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